‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.
A Surprise Accolade
The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
The Star Creation: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.
The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The Creed of Hospitality
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Journey of Perseverance
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
A Recognition for the People
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.